
Is your chimney not working correctly? Have you "tried everything"
and nothing seems to help? Perhaps the problem lies in your Chimney
Physics! At first, this might sound complicated. But really it isn't.
Here are some simple scientific fundamentals to explain how and why
a chimney works - or maybe why it doesn't.
Your House as a System
Even though you can't see it, the air in your house is constantly
in motion. In general, airflow tries to flow out of your house in
the upper parts and make up air tries to flow into your house in
the lower parts of your house. Thinking of your house as a system
makes it easy to understand the reasons for that airflow. The actual
flow of air into and out of any home is influenced by a number of
constantly changing factors, including: stack effect; wind loading;
interior mechanical systems and fuel-burning appliances such as
furnaces, fireplaces, wood stoves and water heaters.Homes built
in the past 25 years, and older homes that have been retrofitted,
have been made more and more airtight. This makes it much more difficult
for makeup air to enter the home.
As the saying goes, "hot air rises",
and so does the warm air in your home. When the warm air rises to
the upper areas it's called the stack effect. That trapped air creates
a pressurized area and forces its way out - through even very small
openings such as light fixtures and window frames. At the same time
replacement air is trying to enter in the lower part of the building
to makeup for the escaping air.
Somewhere in your house, amid all this airflow,
is something called the Neutral Pressure Plane (NPP). Above this
theoretical plane, the air pressure is slightly positive compared
to the outdoor air pressure and is trying to force its way out of
the house. Below the plane, it is slightly negative and the house
is trying to draw air in. The location of the NPP can constantly
change in response to changing conditions. All of the factors that
affect airflow in the house also influence the level of the Neutral
Pressure Plane. Anytime a fireplace or fuel-fired heating appliance
(except direct vent) is below the plane, air will tend to flow into
the house through the chimney or vent. A common example of this
is found in homes with two fireplaces, one below the other. As the
upper level fireplace uses air for combustion and chimney flow,
it depressurizes that level slightly causing air to flow upwards
from the lower level. Since the lower level fireplace is below the
NPP, it draws air into the basement through the chimney. Unfortunately,
since those two flues generally exit the chimney close to each other,
the makeup air can contain some smoke from the fireplace above and
it can pick up unpleasant chimney odors as it passes down the chimney
flue.
Wind-loading is the effect on interior house pressures
caused by the wind. When wind strikes a building, it creates high
pressure on the side that it hits and low pressure on the downwind
side. Any open windows or doors on the windward side will help to
pressurize the house, increasing chimney draft. However, openings
on the downwind side will depressurize the house and increase the
likeliness of backdrafting from chimneys or vents. Backdrafting
is a reversal of the airflow in which the smoke is coming into the
house instead of going up the chimney.Interior mechanical devices
such as clothes dryers, kitchen fans, bathroom fans, attic fans
and central vacuums can also create depressurization by removing
large volumes of air from the house. The result is often negative
pressure in the area of a fireplace, woodstove, or other fuel-fired
heating appliance making it increasingly difficult for natural draft
chimneys to function as intended. Another mechanical system that
commonly removes air from the house is a forced-air furnace. Many
such systems are out-of-balance due to leaks in the ducts. Leaky
supply ducts cause air to be blown into the attic or crawlspace.
Leaky return ducts draw air from the basement or other areas they
pass through. Furnaces, water-heaters, fireplaces and woodstoves
are examples of fuel-burning appliances that require large volumes
of air for combustion. Unless they are specifically equipped to
draw air in from outside the house, such as direct vent appliances,
operating them can reduce the inside air pressure. There are a variety
of mechanical devices on the market that help provide the necessary
make up air to balance the air pressure needs of your house system.
Draft and Flow
Many experienced chimney professionals use the similarities between
water and air to explain the way your chimney works. Although most
people don't realize it, the air moving up your chimney works under
the same set of physical principles as water flowing in a hose or
pipe.When a fireplace chimney is full of hot air, it actually pulls
air through the firebox. This pulling effect is called draft and
it corresponds to the amount of pressure in a water hose - the only
difference is that the air pressure is negative and the water pressure
is positive (think of using a straw to drink with instead of to
blow bubbles). Thus, a chimney is called a negative pressure system.
Increasing the draft in your chimney is like opening the faucet
wider on the hose. The simplest way to increase the draft in your
chimney is to burn the fire hotter - hotter air is lighter, so it
has more pull.
Another way to get more draft is to increase the
height of your chimney - except when the chimney is already so tall
that frictional forces negate the effect of the extra height. Given
the same amount of pressure, a larger pipe can obviously carry a
greater volume of water than a smaller one. The same is true for
chimneys - with the same amount of draft (pressure), a larger flue
will exhaust more smoke from your fireplace than a smaller one.
But just as a water hose can be kinked or plugged, the airflow in
your chimney can have a restriction that slows down the smoke flowing
up the chimney. Some of the reasons for poor flow in a chimney are:
excessive creosote deposits; closed or plugged dampers; improper
construction; structural damage or even a dirty chimney cap. In
fact, having a plugged-up chimney cap at the end of your chimney
is just like having a closed nozzle at the end of a hose - you just
can't get any airflow through the chimney.
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